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Traditional wallpaper (also called non-pasted or unpasted) has no adhesive on the back, so you'll hang it with wallpaper paste. It's our most permanent option, made for walls you plan to love for years. It comes in three materials:Matte,Linen andFaux Grasscloth.

• Matte: no texture, smooth finish with nonwoven backing
• Linen: medium texture, soft fabric-like feel with woven backing
• Faux Grasscloth: high texture with woven backing

We recommend it. Traditional paper takes paste, a steady hand and a sharp blade to get those seams perfect. 

We don't offer installation services ourselves, but any experienced wallpaper installer will know exactly what to do with our panels. You canfind one near you through the Wallcovering Installers Association. 

Confident DIYer? Everything you need is below.

Yes! All three finishes are vinyl finished, commercial grade and water resistant, so they're built for high-humidity spaces like bathrooms and laundry rooms.

It depends on the material.Matte has a smooth, flat surface that shows everything underneath it, so orange peel or knockdown texture will show through.

Linen andFaux Grasscloth have a woven backing and a textured face that help disguise minor wall imperfections, and Faux Grasscloth (our most textured finish) is the most forgiving of the three.

For heavier wall texture, have your walls skim coated smooth before you hang, whatever material you choose. Heavy wall texture can also keep the paper from fully bonding.

Always. Color and texture look different in person, and they vary between materials (Matte especially tends to print lighter than it looks on screen). A sample also lets you test your paste on your actual wall before you commit.

Each panel covers 24 inches of wall. Measure your wall length in inches, divide by 24 and round up. For height, round up to the nearest panel length.Full measuring guide here, or use the calculator on any product page.

• Wallpaper paste, like Roman PRO-880 Ultra Clear Strippable
• Wallpaper primer
• Paint roller or brush for the paste
• Smoothing brush or plastic smoother
• Sharp utility knife with plenty of fresh blades
• Straight edge or taping knife
• Seam roller
• Level and pencil
• Clean sponge and a bucket of water

Your walls should be clean, dry and smooth. Fill any holes, sand down bumps and remove any old wallpaper and leftover adhesive. Then roll on a coat of wallpaper primer and let it dry fully. It gives the paste something to grip and makes future removal much easier.

Unroll everything and check that the design, finish, length and panel count are correct and the print looks good. Find the top of the pattern on each panel, and take care not to crease the paper (creases may not come out). 

If anything looks off, don't install it. Email us athello@funkypaperco.com within 48 hours of delivery with your order number and a few photos.

1. Use a level to draw a straight vertical line where your first panel will go. Walls are rarely perfectly straight, so don't rely on a corner.
2. Apply paste to the back of the panel, then "book" it (fold each end gently toward the center, pasted sides together) for 10 minutes.
3. Hang the panel along your line with 2 to 4 inches of excess above the ceiling. Smooth from the center out to work out any bubbles.
4. For your next panel, match your pattern and overlap the previous panel by 1 inch. Double-cut through both layers with a fresh blade and a straight edge, peel away both waste strips and smooth the seam flat. Roll it gently with a seam roller.
5. Wipe any paste off the front of the paper right away with a damp sponge. It's much harder to remove once it dries.
6. Trim your top and bottom edges, and presto!

Every panel arrives cut to length and printed to line up with the next, so there's no vertical repeat to calculate.

For traditional wallpaper, double-cut is recommended. Paste goes on the back of each panel, which bonds beautifully to a primed wall. But at an overlapped seam, the back of the top panel lands on the vinyl-finished front of the panel underneath, and paste doesn't grip vinyl well. Over time that seam can lift, and it leaves a visible ridge.

Double-cutting removes the overlap entirely, so every inch of paper is pasted straight to the wall for a flat, nearly invisible seam. (Leaving the overlap is recommended for our peel & stick.)

If your design is a single panel design, every panel is identical, so hang them in any order. If it's a double panel design, alternate A, B, A, B across the wall to complete the full pattern. Each product page tells you which type you have.

• Outlets and switches: turn off the power and remove the cover plates, hang the paper right over them, then trim the opening once the panel is smooth.
• Windows and doors: hang the panel over the frame, rough-cut it leaving a couple inches of extra, then trim flush once it's smoothed down.
• Corners: avoid wrapping a big section of paper around a corner. Trim the panel at the corner, then start the next wall with a fresh level line.

Stop hanging and email us athello@funkypaperco.com with photos. It's much easier to fix before the paste sets.

Wipe gently with a damp, soft cloth and dry it right after. Skip harsh cleaners and scrubbing.

Start at a top corner and gently lift the paper with a putty knife. Peel it slowly down and away, keeping your hands close to the wall to avoid damaging it. If the paper resists, spray it with warm water, let it soak in for 10 to 15 minutes and try again. Once it's all off, wipe away any leftover paste with warm, soapy water. 

Walls that were primed before install come clean much more easily.